Iceland

Although the city is ancient and much of the architecture is historic, there are many interesting examples of modern design scattered throughout. Below is the Reykjavík City Hall on Lake Tjornin - not that stunning, sure - but interesting for what it contains!

Located in the lobby of this building is a map nerd's dream come true - a giant relief map of Iceland! That is Lake Tjornin through the window...

Another view with humans in the shot so you can get a sense of the scale - for comparison purposes, Iceland is about the same size as the State of Kentucky.

Finally, last shot of Iceland - the staircase of my hotel, the Nordica. A rather stylish method of egress don't you think?

As is my custom when I travel, I did a search to see if I could find a meeting while I was in town. I found an English speaking AA meeting at a place called "The AA House by the Lake." It really is right on the lake adjacent to the Reykjavik City Hall - prime real estate. Here is the view from front steps of the clubhouse:

If you want to catch a meeting, they have four or five a week in English, otherwise - all in Icelandic. It was odd to see the 12 steps on the wall in Icelandic, but rather comforting... BTW, if I have shared this link with anyone who I just met and does not yet know I am in recovery, well now you do. Sobriety is wonderful - best thing that ever happened to me since I was thrust into this world in July of 1969.

Anyway, the meeting was nice. Small group of internationals - Polish, French, German, Finnish, Icelandic and one American. The American was a big, good looking African-American guy from Vallejo, California (20 miles from where I was born in California) named Eric. He has lived here 10 years and teaches art in the public school system. He loves it here - calls Iceland "God's Workshop"...Not sure if he was refering to his own spiritual journey, the geological history of the Island or the obvious beauty of the people, but I think I get it. I plan to keep in touch with him for the next time I visit.

Based on my very limited exposure to Iceland, I have a few observations and random thoughts about this place - take what you like and leave the rest:

1. This place is beautiful - dramatic cliffs running into the sea, wide expansive valleys, abrupt snow covered mountains, bizarre lava formations, and the sea - the steel blue sea. Parts of it remind me of Middle Park Colorado - the wide, relatively treeless expanses surrounded by mountains - and others remind me of Hawaii. Hawaii you ask? Yes, take Hawaii, take away all the trees and vegitation, add glaciers, snow and blonde people, and you have Iceland. Basically both places are volcanic islands and they are very similar in their topography.

2. Every single person in this country speaks English perfectly. Many have no discernable accent whatsoever - they might as well be from Indiana - others have that lilting sing-song accent with a hiss on on their "s's". It is convenient, sure, but also a little embarassing. I have been trying to learn Icelandic - at least a little - but I am having a hard time getting my mouth around the pronounciation of the language. There is not a great deal of incentive to learn though, when everyone speaks my own language better than I do....

3. The Icelandic people are reasonably friendly, but a little standoffish. I have a habit of striking up conversations with strangers in line at cafes or on public transportation, and this has not worked well with Icelanders - they react as if I am a crazy person (which might not be far off), or they look at me strangely and hurry off. I have not had much of an opportunity to really get to know anyone here, so I will have to give it time.

4. Things are expensive here. A simple piece of chocolate cake and a coffee at a modest cafe here costs 900 Icelandic Kronur ($15). Part of that is the weak dollar, but also, everything has to be shipped here from far away...They grow basically nothing and besides pulling fish from the sea and generating geothermal energy, I am not exactly sure what keeps the Economy going - I will do some research.

5. The Icelandic people are WAY taller than I am used to. I am 6'1" and I am average to below average height for this place. I swear that everyone under 40 in this place is six feet tall or taller - women included. I am not sure what they have been feeding these people since the 1960s, but it really is striking. For example, at the Bjork concert there were so many tall people in the crowd, I could hardly see a thing until I climbed some steps and watched from an alcove.

6. Continuing on that note... yes guys, the women here are beautiful. Many, not all, but many of them have that tall, angular, blonde, and nordic look that is the source of so many cliches about this place, but most are dark and slightly asiatic looking - almost elfin in appearance. That being said, every country has its beautiful women. I know more than a few women of English/Irish/Persian/Italian/Scottish/Portuguese/Peruvian/Pashtun/German/African/Chinese/Indian/Japanese and French descent (and you know who you are!) that can hold their own against the women of this country any day...

7. Lastly, and sorry to be crass ladies, but the urinals in men's public rest rooms in this country are WAY too close together. I have no problem being in the company of men, but when you are touching shoulders with the guy next to you, it is hard to focus on the business at hand... Sorry, I had to get that one off my chest.

Finally, if you are interested in a good English language online publication check out the Reykjavik Grapevine http://www.grapevine.is/default.aspx?show=paper&part=content This independant newspaper has good information on what is going on in town - art, music, food - and some good feature reporting.

Anyway, enough for today - as the Icelanders say:

"Blesse, Blesse!"

My first stop was the Alþingi (pronounced "al-thingy"), or site of the historic Viking Parliament. Starting in 930 A.D., the clan leaders from around the country would assemble for two weeks in June to give speeches and make law. The photo below is where they assembled:

Just a few hundred meters from where laws were made, this is were punishments were carried out. It was the Viking custom to punish transgressors with drowning. Those guilty of the most heinous crimes (incest or infanticide to hide the birth of a child), were submerged here until dead:

Don't mess with the Viking Law...

Here are two photos of Þingvellir Church from Iceland's more recent Lutheran history.


Check out this piece of igneous rock - the lava formations are a clue to Iceland's not so ancient volcanic past:

My next stop was the famous Gulfloss Waterfall. Fed by a large glacial lake and underground spring, it is pretty dramatic.

Because of the cold temperatures, the mist left a coating of ice on everything in the vicinity, including yours truly...


I love the way the ice coated these blades of grass...

When I told people that I was going to Iceland, some of you joked that I might see Björk while I am here. Well, sure enough, I did. I was browsing the internet a day before my departure looking for something fun to do on my first night in Reykjavik. To my delight, I discovered that she was doing her first concert in her hometown in six years on the night I was to arrive. I scored a ticket and went last night. I made some friends in the hotel lounge - travellers from Northhampton, England - told them about the concert, and we all went together.

The show was in a local multi-purpose hall and there were about 5,000 people in attendance of all ages (or 1.7% of the population of the country). She was accompanied by a full chorus of Icelandic women who also, conveniently, turned into a horn section when needed - no kidding. I have been a huge fan since I saw her at the Filmore Auditorium in San Francisco 13 years ago, so I enjoyed myself immensely. The one thing that struck me was how sedate the crowd was. The floor of the hall was filled with young fans, but they just stood there - no one dancing, no one jumping. I related this fact to someone later and they replied "welcome to Iceland"...

Below is a photo of my new friends who went to the concert with me. We grabbed a bite afterwards together:

Thats Saoirse (pronounced "Seer-shuh" - its Gaelic) on the right - she is a Research Scientist at the University of Northhampton studying the medical effects of cannabis (again, not kidding) and John in the middle - he is a Software Engineer for Reuters. We had a terrific time together - too bad they had to fly home this morning...

Finally, things really got strange. Turns out that Yoko Ono is in town and is staying at my hotel. She is in the suite down the hall from me. I just rode the elevator with her. What does one say to Yoko Ono in an elevator in Reykjavik? In my case, nothing. I just couldn't think of anything clever to say... missed my chance.